This 2 Feet Fish Tank Stand will give your fish tank a new lease on life. This stand is made from durable, non-toxic material that makes it safe for your fish and the environment. It comes in a wide range of colors, so you can choose the one that matches your home decor best. The stand is designed to hold fish tanks up to 20 gallons, but it can also be used with other items such as vases and planters.
The stand has a solid base that prevents tipping or wobbling, and it has adjustable legs so you can adjust its height according to your needs. The tank’s weight will be evenly distributed across the surface area of each leg due to its triangular shape, which makes it strong enough to support even large aquariums without any problems.
This 2 Feet Fish Tank Stand is easy to assemble and disassemble so you can move it around if needed without any difficulty! It is also lightweight enough so you can pick up or move it around easily when necessary – no heavy lifting required!
Step 1: Acquire Tools
- Sandpaper (we used 100 grit and 220 grit)
- Wood glue
- Stain of your choice (we used Minwax Ebony)
- Varnathane or polyurethane of your choice to seal the stand if you wish (optional)
Step 2: Cut the wood and assemble the sides
After you have all your pieces cut from the previous step, start by assembling the sides of the stand. Choose one side and place it flat on a table or workbench. Take a corner brace, flip it upside down and attach it to the inside edge of the side piece with 1-1/2″ wood screws (Image 1). Make sure that there is at least 1/4″ between the ends of each brace so they do not get in way when you assemble both sides of stand together (Images 2 and 3). Repeat this process for all four corners (Image 4). Next square up the sides using a carpenter’s square or speed square, making sure that all edges are at 90 degrees to each other (Image 5). You can use a clamp to hold everything together while you attach the other corner braces. Drill pilot holes before installing any screws to keep from splitting any wood. Repeat this step for assembling the other side of this stand.
Step 3: Assemble the door frame
For this step, you’ll need a square and a drill. The square will help you ensure that your door frame is perfectly square. It’s important to have a 90-degree angle in the corners because it’ll make sure that your door won’t get stuck when you open or close it. If a corner isn’t square, use the saw to trim off some excess wood so that the corner is 90 degrees.
Get all of your pieces together, and then use wood glue to glue them together in their final position. Then use a clamp to hold everything in place while you pre-drill holes for screws and screw everything together. Drill pilot holes before screwing anything in place so that the wood doesn’t split as you drive screws into it.
Step 4: Attach the hinges to the door frame and door.
Attach the hinges to the door frame and then to the door. Make sure they are aligned. I started by pre-drilling pilot holes, then screwing in screws with a Phillips screwdriver. I attached the hinges at both the top and bottom of both the door frame and the door, making sure that all four hinges were level. Then I also attached a handle just below where the middle hinge is on this side of the cabinet (the opposite side from where you’ll be attaching hinges for a latch).
Step 5: Attach frame and door to the side panels.
- On the outside edges of all four side panels, measure and mark where you want your frame to be on each panel.
- Using a drill with a screw tip, attach the frame to both sides by screwing through it into each side panel. Make sure that you are screwing the pieces together inside so that the heads are not visible on the outside (you can see what we mean in Step 5a).
- Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the door using similar measurements and markings to ensure that it is lined up properly with the frame when closed (in other words, it should fit perfectly inside without any gaps).
Step 6: Install door latch.
- Door latch
- This is a simple latch that allows you to open and close the door from inside or outside of the stand.
- Install door latch
- Use screws or nails to fasten it to the door frame and edge of the door.
Step 7: Attach piece of plywood to attach all firmly
Secure the other leg pieces to the leg-L piece by screwing them in through the plywood.
A drill makes this step easier.
Step 8: Cut notch for hoses in back panel
Now is the time for you to cut a notch in the back panel of your stand. Use a jigsaw or handsaw, but double check you’re lined up well first. Mark out where the holes need to be, then drill a small hole in the center of each notch and insert the blade into it. As always, sand down your cut marks for that professional look.
Step 9: Finish sanding, stain and varnish.
Once you’re sure the stain is even, allow it to dry for a few hours. After that, you can apply two-three coats of polyurethane varnish to the stand.
Allow each coat of varnish to dry before applying the next coat. Once all three coats are done, one more time go over the stand with fine sand paper to remove any high spots and make it smooth.
Wipe off the dust and install your tank on the stand.
Feel free to use my costs as a guide, but remember that prices vary across the country. If you are in an area with lots of woodworkers, the cost will be less than if they are rare. Also remember that while I chose a two-foot tank, yours can be any size, and your stand should match.
- Materials – $200
- Total – $200
- Per square foot – $100 per square foot (I’m assuming it’s a 2×2 stand)
Your tank should be cleaned once a week. The water should be changed every month, and the filter should be cleaned every three months. Any plants in the tank should be trimmed every six months, as this will help them grow better and keep them from taking over the tank. It’s also important to remember that these fish can get up to two feet long, so make sure you have a large enough tank for your fish to live out their full lives. These fish can live for ten years or even longer if given proper care and attention!