If your fish is not eating, there are a few things you can do to help get them back on track. First, make sure the tank is at the right temperature. A fish that is not eating may be doing so because they are too cold or too hot. If the tank does not have a heater, then you can add some ice cubes to cool it down. If the temperature is too hot, try adding more ice cubes or some ice packs to bring it down.

Second, check for parasites and other infections. Some parasites can affect the appetite in fish, so you should check your fish for any signs of disease or parasites by looking at their gills and eyes. If they have any redness or swelling in these areas, then they might have an infection that could be causing them not to eat. If you see these symptoms, bring your fish to an aquarium store immediately where they will be able to diagnose what is wrong with them and recommend treatment options if needed.

Thirdly (and most importantly), consider feeding them something different. Try feeding them freeze-dried bloodworms instead of flakes or pellets; this might entice them into eating again if they’re bored with their usual fare.

Medicine For Fish Not Eating

If your fish is not eating, it is probably a sign of a pathogen. This condition will cause the fish to die because the pathogen is inside of it. The following are some of the main symptoms to look out for when your fish is not eating: Fin or tail rot, Parasites, or Bacterial infections. If you suspect any of these, you can treat your fish using these medicines. Read on to learn how to treat your fish.


If your fish suddenly stops eating, you should first look for an internal parasite. These parasites live in the fish’s lower digestive tract, causing the fish to become “full” even when it is not eating. They multiply in the fish’s stomach and leave less room for food. Malnourished fish are more susceptible to many diseases. Fortunately, parasites are not very hard to cure.

The life cycle of parasites depends on the temperature of the aquarium water. At 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle takes about three to four days. At 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it can take as much as five weeks. This is because the parasites are dormant for a long time at low temperatures. When the water temperature is below 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle may take much longer, depending on how many fish are in the aquarium.

Leech infestations are common in wild fish. The problem is most common in Discus, but it can also affect any fish. Some treatments are effective for this problem, such as organophosphates. However, these medications are not approved for use on food fish and may be regulated by environmental laws. You should consult with a veterinarian before using any of these treatments. They are expensive and will cause more damage to your fish in the long run than if you treated them for a problem like a leech infestation.

Bacterial infections

A bacterial infection in fish can be caused by several factors. Poor water quality, poor diet, and stress can all contribute to the problem. Treatments should focus on the cause of the bacterial infection, whether it’s poor water quality or a stress-related issue. Most treatments can be purchased over the internet or from a local fish shop. In some cases, fish may not show any symptoms at all, but the loss of appetite and swollen abdomen are signs of internal bacterial infection.

Another cause of bacterial infection in fish is a parasitic infection. These organisms cause the overproduction of mucus that appears as a whitish-to-blue or grey coating on the fish’s skin. When the fish is infected, it may also display signs of stress, including rapid breathing. If you notice these symptoms in your fish, it is time to seek medical help. Once you’ve determined the cause of the infection, you can treat your fish.

Another cause is a parasite called Pleistophora hyphessobryconis. Pleistophora hyphessobryconis lives inside fish and feeds on it until it dies. Live foods can act as carriers of these parasites and can be transmitted to your fish through the food you feed your fish. Fortunately, there’s a simple way to treat fish suffering from bacterial infections in fish.

Fin or tail rot

Fish not eating due to fin or tail rot can be treated with antibacterial or antifungal medication. These medicines are safe for fish, but they may have side effects on live plants and invertebrates. To avoid further damage to your fish, do not treat the entire aquarium. Instead, use a UV clarifier to neutralize the medicine. Once the treatment is complete, monitor your fish closely. They may grow back with damaged fins.

Inflamed blood vessels are an indicator of heavy infection. Cottony patches of white or clear growths are characteristic of a fungal infection. Fungal Fin Rot tends to destroy an entire fin, which is why it is called “fin rot.” The infection spreads throughout the tail and fins. The fins are among the most sensitive parts of the fish and can be easily damaged by this disease.

In addition to feeding a variety of high-quality fish food, owners should also avoid commercially bred fish with long fins. These types of fish have large fins that are easily damaged by rough treatment. In addition, stressed bettas can bite off their own excessive finnage, leading to an open wound. The likelihood of developing fin rot increases as the fish’s stress level rises.


Hexamita in fish can lead to a variety of problems including poor appetite, slimy mucous feces, lesions on the fish’s head, and a loss of appetite. Lesions on the fish’s head indicate that the fish has an infection, which is often caused by a parasite. In severe cases, the lateral line may be eroded and the fish may stop eating altogether.

The most effective treatment for Hexamita is metronidazole, which is not widely available in the United States and Europe. Another possible cure is Epsom salts, which are also known as magnesium sulfate. This natural laxative will kill off the parasites and help the fish eat again. If you have a lot of fish in your tank, you can also try an Epsom salts bath.

Epsom salts are an inexpensive and easy way to combat Hexamita in your aquarium. However, it is best to avoid adding too much salt to the tank. Adding too much salt can be detrimental to your fish’s health and may cause them to become stressed. To avoid this problem, make sure to measure only the water in your fish tank, excluding gravel and stones. Then calculate the dosage based on the example above.

Another treatment for Hexamita in fish is antibiotics. The infection can lead to nutrient deficiencies and weakened immunity, so you must treat it as soon as possible. As the parasite attacks the digestive system, the feces of your fish will become whitish and slimy. Your fish may appear healthy but may be hiding in a small corner of the tank or swimming backward.


Oodinium as medicine for fish, not feeding can be effective in removing this parasite from a fish’s gills. The parasite is made up of tiny spores that attach to the gills of its host. These spores are referred to as dinospores. They feed for around 24 hours before ceasing feeding and forming a cyst. Treatments for this parasite work best on the Dinospore stage, though treatments for other stages are less effective.

When this parasite multiplies in a fish’s gills, the disease occurs. The affected fish appears with clouded eyes, peppered fins, and a dusty body. In addition to the yellow dust, the fish may also have excess mucus secretion. This mucous is a defense mechanism of the parasite, and if not removed in time, the skin of the fish may become opaque and fall off. In extreme cases, fish may die within 12 hours. Oodinium is a disease of the gills and can be caused by dirty water.

Copper sulfate and SeaChem Marine Buffer are common treatments for this parasite, and they can be effective for a short time. Copper can be used as a treatment, but it must be used with caution because the copper in the water will cause toxicity to the fish. Copper sulfate is an excellent treatment for this parasite, but it is not as effective in a freshwater aquarium. Oodinium is found in a variety of environments, and the most effective treatment is prevention. Maintain the water parameters of the aquarium, including no ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates, and calcium 400-450 ppm.


If your fish has not been eating for days, it could be due to a problem with columnaris. Columnaris infections can affect many species of fish, including those found in aquariums. This infection is contagious, so you’ll have to treat all affected fish to ensure their survival. If your fish are not eating, you should monitor the water parameters of your tank closely to detect signs of infection and prescribe the appropriate medicine.

It’s vital to make sure the water quality is high enough to support the immune system of your sick fish. Remember that poor water quality can make your fish more susceptible to Columnaris. Keeping the temperature in your tank below 75 degrees Fahrenheit will slow down the disease’s spread and provide your fish with the best chance of survival. You can use a tablet or liquid medication to cure your fish.

It’s crucial to treat your columnaris with a medication that works with the bacteria it’s feeding on. A nitrofuran-based medicine will work best when combined with kanamycin. Remember that the pH level in your aquarium will affect the effectiveness of nitrofuran-based medications, so you need to use it sparingly. In addition to this, you should remove any stressors in the tank to reduce your fish’s chances of developing Columnaris.

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