We’ve previously discussed methods of getting rid of Bermuda grass somewhat generally. But it’s important to recognize that the approach can differ depending on where the Bermuda grass is invading. Let’s break down specific considerations for a couple of common scenarios:

• Getting rid of Bermuda grass that’s invaded a cool-season lawn (like fescue, rye, or bluegrass lawn),
• Removing Bermuda grass from flower beds or vegetable gardens.

Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) doesn’t care where it lands. Sidewalk cracks? Sure. That tidy bed of dahlias you swore was safe? Absolutely. Your neighbor’s lawn and now yours? You bet. It creeps along the surface with stolons, digs underground with rhizomes, and even lies in wait as seeds buried in the soil for years, just waiting for the perfect time to sprout.

Eliminating Bermuda Grass in a Cool-Season Lawn

If you have a nice fescue or bluegrass lawn being infiltrated by Bermuda patches (often called “wiregrass” by folks up north), you face a dilemma: any aggressive action against Bermuda might also damage your lawn. You generally have two paths:

1. Renovation (Kill and Reseed)

If Bermuda has taken over large sections (say more than 20-30% of the lawn), sometimes the easiest route is the scorched-earth approach; kill everything and start the lawn over. This involves using a non-selective herbicide over the entire area (or at least wherever the Bermuda is, plus a buffer around it).

As detailed earlier, you’d do multiple applications during summer until you’re confident the Bermuda is dead. Then you would reseed or sod your lawn with your desired grass in early fall (best time for cool-season grass establishment). The process might look like:

1. Late June: spray Bermuda patches with glyphosate.
2. Late July: spray any regrowth again.
3. Early September: do one last spot spray if needed, then dethatch or rake out the dead material.
4. Reseed with tall fescue (or your choice grass) around Labor Day, keep it watered, etc.

By using this renovation strategy, you ensure the Bermuda is mostly gone and you get a fresh lawn. The downside is you have a dead-looking yard for a bit, and you must be careful to time it so your new grass can establish (and hope no Bermuda seeds sprout in the meantime; using a starter fertilizer with a temporary herbicide like siduron can prevent that). This route is a bit drastic but very effective if done correctly.

2. Selective Suppression (Gradual Removal)

 

If the Bermuda is not too extensive or you prefer not to kill the whole lawn, use selective herbicide treatments and cultural practices to gradually push Bermuda out. This includes:

• Raising your mowing height to favor fescue (as we discussed, shade it out).
• Applying selective herbicides like those combos (e.g., triclopyr + fenoxaprop) during the growing season to injure the Bermuda.
• Focusing treatments in late summer/fall which seem to hurt Bermuda more.
• Overseeding in fall to let fescue fill any voids and further crowd the Bermuda.
• Repeating this program for perhaps 2-3 years. Each year, the Bermuda should be weaker and less prevalent, until it’s virtually gone or at least not noticeable.

This selective approach requires more patience and vigilance (and sometimes the herbicide products are specialty ones you might need to source). But it avoids the lawn ever being completely bare at once, you maintain turf cover throughout, which some homeowners prefer.

Important: Whichever approach, maintain excellent lawn care. Fertilize in fall, water properly, treat diseases, etc. A robust cool-season lawn is your best long-term defense. And remember, even after you “eliminate” Bermuda, you should keep up these practices, because Bermuda can always creep back from edges or neighbor’s lawns if given the chance.

Removing Bermuda Grass from Flower or Vegetable Beds

Bermuda grass invading garden beds is a very common and frustrating issue. It winds through your shrubs, perennials, and even veggies, entangling their roots. Removing it here is tricky because you don’t want to harm your desirable plants.

1. Manual and Barrier Methods Shine

In beds, you’ll likely rely heavily on manual removal and smothering, because broadcasting herbicide might hit your ornamental or edible plants. Here’s an approach:

First, carefully dig out the Bermuda grass around your prized plants. You might have to dig up some of your flowers or bushes temporarily to really cleanse their root area of Bermuda (I’ve dug out daylilies, pulled Bermuda rhizomes from their roots, and replanted them). For vegetables, it’s often easier to do major removal in the off-season or between crops.

If the bed is fallow or can be sacrificed for a season, consider doing the sheet mulching method right in the bed (cardboard over it all, around larger shrubs, then mulch) and let it sit.

Use a border trench or edging between the lawn and bed. A metal or plastic edging buried 6 inches can slow Bermuda’s creep underground (though it can sometimes go under deeper). Even a simple trench (re-dig a V-shaped trench edge along your bed line regularly) can break runners. This won’t stop seeds, but Bermuda mostly spreads by runners from lawns nearby.

2. Selective Herbicide in Beds

If hand-weeding is insufficient, you can resort to careful herbicide use:

Grass-only herbicides (like sethoxydim or fluazifop) can be sprayed over many ornamentals. For example, Ornamec (fluazifop) is labeled for use in landscape beds without hurting a long list of perennials and shrubs. Always check if your specific plants are tolerant. I’ve used such products to kill Bermuda in a bed of hydrangeas and daylilies, and it did the job over a summer.

Use shields if spraying. A piece of cardboard held between the Bermuda and your tomato plant can protect it from drift. Or use a sponge applicator to physically wipe herbicide on Bermuda leaves (wearing chemical-resistant gloves).

For vegetable gardens, be extremely cautious with herbicides; many are not allowed in edible crop areas or have waiting times. You may prefer to stick with digging and maybe solarization there, rather than chemicals, unless it’s a serious infestation.

Post-clearance: After you (hopefully) clear a bed of Bermuda, mulch it well. Keep a layer of organic mulch and renew it as needed to catch any new invaders. Inspect often; any little Bermuda sprig that shows up should be promptly pulled or dug out, root and all. If you stay on top of it, you can keep your beds relatively Bermuda-free. The worst is when you ignore it for a season and suddenly it’s everywhere, then the cycle starts anew.

One more tip: If you are planting a new bed and know Bermuda is around, consider putting down a permanent landscape fabric underneath your mulch. While I generally prefer cardboard/mulch that decomposes, in some situations, a quality landscape fabric (the kind that lets water through but blocks weeds) can offer longer protection. It’s not foolproof (Bermuda can sometimes find the planting holes or edges), but it can help.

Preventing Bermuda Grass from Returning

Keeping Bermuda grass at bay requires vigilance long after the initial removal.

Ongoing maintenance

• Regular mowing: Continue mowing cool‑season lawns at 3.5–4 inches, never below 3.5 inches.
• Proper watering: Water deeply and infrequently; drought stress can weaken desirable turf, giving Bermuda grass an opening.
• Fall fertility: Fertilize cool‑season lawns in autumn to strengthen them before winter.

Monitoring and re‑treatment

• Scout frequently. Look for creeping stolons in beds and along edges. Pull or spot‑treat new plants immediately.
• Apply herbicides judiciously. Concentrate effective herbicides in the fall if you have limited time for treatments.

Proper disposal and sanitation

Grass clippings can spread Bermuda grass seeds and rhizomes. Compost clippings thoroughly before using them as mulch, or dispose of them off‑site. Clean tools after working in infested areas to avoid inadvertently moving stolons around the garden.

Keeping Bermuda Out for Good

You’ve won the battle; now keep Bermuda from regrouping.

For Lawns:

• Mow higher. Bermuda loves shortcuts. Mow cool-season grass tall (3.5–4 inches) to shade it out.
• Keep it thick. Fertilize, water, and overseed. Don’t leave bare spots.
• Edge like you mean it. Stolons creep; cut them off before they settle.

For Beds:

• Use barriers. Metal or plastic edging sunk at least 6 inches deep.
• Mulch heavy. Shade soil so seeds don’t sprout.
• Patrol the edges. One stray runner can turn into a problem if ignored.

And a biggie: don’t import trouble. Bermuda can hitch a ride in sod, potted plants, even a “free load” of soil from a friend. If it looks suspicious, pass.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, tackling Bermuda grass isn’t about one magic bullet; it’s a journey of strategy, patience, and persistence. Whether you choose a total lawn renovation or opt for gradual suppression, your goal is the same: reclaim healthy turf and then stay vigilant so Bermuda doesn’t stage a comeback. And when it sneaks into beds? It means sharpening your spade, leveraging barriers, and keeping a sharp eye on invaders.

At the end of the day, what matters most is nurturing your landscape in a way that honors the seasons and the grueling tenacity of Bermuda itself. Feed your lawn in the fall, water deeply, mow intentionally, and treat your beds like sacred ground; mulched, edged, and watched. Keep pulling those stray runners and never underestimate the power of planting with purpose.

So go on; get out there, dig a little deeper, pull a little harder, and don’t let the grass win. If Bermuda learned anything about gardening, it’s learned from you. With consistent care and the right strategy, you’ll get the upper hand and keep it, for good.