There’s nothing quite like stepping into the garden at first light in Georgia, when the earth still holds the whisper of dew, and the air tastes faintly of possibility. In that moment, standing over freshly turned soil, you can almost smell the promise of strawberry harvests to come.
In this post, I’m going to walk you through exactly when to plant strawberries in Georgia, whether you’re in the misty mountains of North Georgia or basking in the milder climes of Middle and South. By the end, you’ll know not just what to do and when, but why it works for your zone, what systems and varieties suit you best, and how to dodge the usual pitfalls, all told from the heart of a gardener who’s leaned over these beds with muddy hands more times than I can count.
Why Timing Matters in Georgia
If you’ve ever tried to plant strawberries at the “wrong” time, you know the frustration: crowns rotting, runners wilting, or diseases creeping in before the plants even settle. Georgia’s climate isn’t uniform, and that means timing matters more here than almost anywhere else.
In Middle Georgia, there are two big windows for planting: spring and fall. Patches get planted in spring (March to May) and fall (mid-July to September) for a harvest later in the year. But these dates shift a bit depending on where you live. Fall can be up to two weeks later in South Georgia, and a couple of weeks earlier in North Georgia’s cooler mountain zones.
UGA’s Home Garden Strawberries guide makes the distinction even sharper: in Middle and South Georgia, you get the best results by planting in fall using the annual hill system, usually from September 15 to November 1, with early October often being the absolute sweet spot. In North Georgia, where winters bite harder and diseases like anthracnose hit hard in hot, wet summers, the matted-row system planted in early spring tends to thrive more reliably.
Timing Equals Plant Health and Yield
Planting at the proper time gives your strawberries the breathing room they need. In cooler spring soil, matted-row plantings in North Georgia can safeguard roots, avoid harsh winter stress, and turn into vigorous matted lanes spring-forward into juicy harvests. In Middle and South Georgia, fall planting means plants settle in as the soil cools, build strong roots, and burst into life as days lengthen, usually giving you a spring harvest before summer heat and disease cycles kick in.
Get either wrong, and you’re flirting with poor fruiting, wilted runners, or worse, disease that can take down the whole patch. That’s why knowing when to plant strawberries in Georgia, based on where you live, is absolutely the foundation of a sweet, healthy harvest.
Zone-by-Zone Planting Guide
Imagine standing barefoot in your garden, north Georgia earth still cool under your toes, mid-Georgia soil warming from late-summer sun, or sweet magnolia-scented air in the south. Each has its rhythm, and those rhythms are why knowing your zone in Georgia matters more than a calendar date when planting strawberries.
North Georgia: Matted-Row System & Spring Timing
In the rolling foothills of North Georgia, where late frosts can surprise even the wisest gardener, the matted-row system planted in early spring is your best bet. The UGA Extension guide spells it out: plants are set in spring (just as soil becomes workable), then runners fill the bed over summer, and fruit comes in the second spring. This system allows strawberries to hold strong through cooler winters and avoids anthracnose, which looms in hot, wet summers.
Here, I swear by starting seeds when the soil has that damp, earthy scent, early March for me, when I can still feel morning frost on my boots. I spread fertilizer about a week before planting, something like 5 lb of 10-10-10 over an 8 × 30-ft bed, then plant rows 4 feet apart, with individual plants 2 feet apart. The smells, rich loam and faint fertilizer tang, stick in memory.
First-year flowers get snipped off. They’re tempting, yes, but pulling them ahead of time pushes energy into root and runner development. Then runners weave into little new crowns next summer, giving you that beautiful emerald mat of leaves.
Middle & South Georgia: Annual Hill System & Fall Planting
If you’re in Middle or South Georgia, where winters are kinder but summers can bake the ground overheated, the annual hill system planted in fall is your secret to success.
UGA Extension recommends planting between September 15 and November 1, with early October being the golden date for most gardeners in these regions. The idea is that plants get settled in cooler soil, roots establish before dormancy, and spring sings with strong, disease-dodging growth.
Beds are shaped around 26 inches wide (center 8 inches high), rows spaced about 22 inches apart, with plants 12 inches apart. I remember shaping my beds by hand once, bending down to feel the cool clay give under my palms, smelling that freshly spaded earth just before the first rain.
Covering with black plastic mulch (or pine straw if you like the rustic feel and scent) creates a microclimate of warmth while suppressing weeds. Drip irrigation tucked underneath means you water without wetting foliage, and birds don’t get frost-bitten feet rooting around.
How Timings Shift by Latitude
UGA’s vegetable calendar reminds us that these planting windows aren’t set in stone. They shift with the latitude:
- In South Georgia, spring planting can happen two to three weeks earlier, and fall planting two weeks later than middle Georgia.
- In North Georgia, it’s the opposite. Spring planting is generally one to three weeks later, and fall planting about two weeks earlier.
That first season, I played a little too gung-ho and planted early in Dahlonega, and got stuck with a frost zap. Now I wait for soil that holds steady at around 50°F, and I keep row covers ready until I see consistent 40°F days.
There are threads in gardening communities that whisper real wisdom. One gardener from Georgia put it beautifully:
“You will get more berries allowing them to spread but they will be larger and sweeter when removing the runners.”
I’ve felt the truth of that. Thin the runners, and your berries build character (and size). Another grower, raising varieties Ozark and California Giant, recalled losing many to a cold snap, but the survivors produced runners freely “like a green velvet tide.” It’s those real experiences, the heartbreak and payoff, that ground the timing advice in living, breathing trials.
Choosing the Right System & Varieties
There’s something deeply satisfying about running your fingers gently through a strawberry plant’s foliage, feeling the velvety leaves, catching the sweet aroma of ripening fruit on the breeze. Choosing the right variety and system isn’t just a decision; it’s about co-creating that sensory moment in your own Georgia patch. Let’s dig into what works, where, and why, based on real trials and expert recommendations.
Why the System Matters (Hill vs. Matted-Row)
In Middle and South Georgia, the annual hill system is the time-tested choice. You’ll create raised, gently sloped beds about 26 inches wide, applying 3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet before shaping, then plant strawberries in two rows, spaced 12 inches apart, with aisles of 22 inches between beds. Covering with black plastic mulch (or pine straw if you prefer that gentle forest scent) helps warm the soil, suppress weeds, and reduce disease while drip irrigation runs stealthily underneath. This catches not just the water, but the warmth that whispers to roots, “Settle in.”
In contrast, North Georgia’s cooler climate prefers a matted-row system, planted in early spring. This means letting plants send runners all around, creating a lush mat of new crowns that will carry you through to a fruitful harvest next season.
Varieties That Shine in Georgia’s Soil
Georgia’s industry and home-growing enthusiasts consistently lean on a trio of tried-and-true varieties: Chandler, Camarosa, and Sweet Charlie. Though phased out in places like California and Florida, these stand strong under South Georgia’s mild winters and responsive soils.
Chandler: Born from UC Davis, Chandler yields large, flavorful berries with proven performance across the Southeast. It’s the go-to in North Georgia, where its vigor and adaptability outperform even Camarosa in cooler mountain soils.
Camarosa: A midseason sweetheart, firm, large, and splendidly sweet, Camarosa handles heat and shipping demands with grace, making it ideal for Middle and South Georgia annual hill systems. It can extend your pick-your-own season when temperatures climb.
Sweet Charlie: An early-season performer, Sweet Charlie supplies the first blush of taste in the spring. It blends well in “mix beds,” giving you early berries while Chandler and Camarosa follow.
According to a UGA-based trial, the highest yields and best storage life came from Camino Real, Strawberry Festival, and Camarosa, making them strong options for gardeners wanting longevity and hardiness.
While traditional varieties hold their place, there’s real promise in newer short-day and day-neutral varieties:
- Albion, a day-neutral cultivar, brings sweetness, firmness, and disease resistance, ideal for extended harvests in variable climates.
- Cabrillo and Calinda also show strong potential in South Georgia, available for growers ready to experiment with postharvest resilience and fresh-season adaptability.
These newer options offer a chance to build on tradition with improved shelf life and sweet rewards.
One Redittor’s advice mirrors what I’ve whispered aloud after one spritz of overhead moisture hit the leaves:
“First, decide if you want June-bearing or everbearing… June-bearing gives you a great amount of berries all at once. Everbearing gives you berries all summer long.”
I’ve found that combo, an early Sweet Charlie for jam-making, followed by Chandler’s bounty and Camarosa’s firm resilience, lets me walk outside from spring into early summer, and always taste something fresh.
By aligning your planting system (hill or matted-row) with the right strawberry varieties, Chandler, Camarosa, Sweet Charlie, and even Albion, you anchor your crop in proven performance and sensory delight. Whether it’s the sweet firmness of Camarosa under your fingers or the early tang of Sweet Charlie in your mouth, choosing with intent brings both flavor and reliability.
Read more: Best Strawberry Varieties to Grow: Season, Taste & Disease Resistance
Soil, Weather & the Senses
If you’ve ever sunk your hands into garden soil, cool, crumbly, and faintly fragrant with earth and decay, you know the hush it brings before planting. Strawberries are tiny harbingers of joy, but they’re picky: they need the soil, the air, and the weather to whisper just the right notes before they sing.
Soil Requirements
Strawberries flourish in fertile, medium-light textured soil, think loamy, well-drained, yet with enough moisture-holding capacity to cradle the roots. If you’re wrestling with heavy clay that clings wet and stiffens in heat, or deep sand that flushes nutrients away, you’ll want to amend heavily or build raised beds.
In Georgia, many of us garden on Tifton soil, a loamy sand with enough body to work and plenty of rootspace without waterlogging. It’s why so much of Georgia’s prime farmlands sit on it.
A soil test is essential. It will tell you if lime is needed to adjust pH, or if nematodes lurk below, waiting to slacken your berries’ synergy. Thumb through your county extension’s testing kit and invest a little for a healthier patch.
The Soil pH
Strawberries are finicky about acidity. They flourish in a slightly acidic sweet spot, preferably 6.0 to 6.2 pH, though they will still manage in a broader 5.5 to 6.5 range. This range ensures they can access phosphorus and other nutrients without aluminum toxicity or nutrient lockout.
If soil acidity is off, trust your soil test’s recommendation: lime if you’re too acidic, sulfur or organic matter if you’re too alkaline. Raised beds give you greater control, especially in tricky spots.
Fertilizer and Organic Matter
Before planting, work in 2 to 3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure; your soil’s slow-release pantry. It’s like bedding your plants in earned nourishment, cushioning their roots.
For annual hill systems, 3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq ft is still the classic approach; for matted-row setups, adjust slightly but keep balanced nutrition: mid-June and again in late September for year one and beyond. Overfertilizing with nitrogen can send plants into green overdrive, dilute the sweetness of the berries, and open the door to disease.
Moisture & Drainage
Strawberries need 1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly, manageable, but not too much. Well-drained beds, preferably raised or mulched, keep water from pooling at the crown. Overly wet crowns welcome crown rot, while dry spells shrivel the plants and shriek harvest loss. Drip irrigation tucked beneath mulch keeps foliage dry and disease at bay.
Air, Sun, and Disease Prevention
Sweet flavor starts with full sun, at least 6 hours, but more like 8–10 hours makes strawberries sigh in thanks. Planting where the air moves helps dry the leaves faster, combating leaf scorch and rot. Avoid placing your beds under tall shrubs or fences that trap humidity.
Leaf scorch disease, caused by Diplocarpon earlianum, thrives in warm dampness. If leaves stay wet for more than 12 hours, you’re looking at spreading lesions, lost photosynthesis, and sour fruit. Let the sun and a breeze be your first defense.
Here’s one shared on a gardening forum that stuck with me:
“Watering with a pH of 3.5 and using an acid meal … helps with growth and flower production.”
It’s extreme, but the underlying truth is clear: water quality matters. Test it. I’ve often brought buckets back from the well to check pH before pouring over the patch, especially in new beds.
Planting Steps for Georgia Gardeners
There’s something magical about the moment you plant your strawberries, the gentle press of soil beneath your fingertips, the clean, earthy scent rising as you bury the roots. Let’s walk through the steps together, hand in hand, step by step, so your patch grows from that memory into a thriving, juicy reality.
Preparing the Soil and Site
Before you touch a root, choose a sunlit spot that catches the morning dew and dries before midday heat sets in. The ideal location in Georgia? Fertile, medium-light soil like mellow loam or loamy sand with good drainage, nothing gummy or bone-dry. A quick soil test is more than helpful, it’s essential: check pH and test for nematodes, so your plants don’t face hidden battles beneath the surface.
If your land leans heavy or pale, consider raised beds or heavily amended soil to improve moisture control and texture. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Timing and System Setup, Hill or Matted-Row
Your planting method depends on your region:
- Middle & South Georgia (Zones 7b+): Annual Hill System in Fall: Prepare beds by broadcasting 3 lb of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq ft, shaping 26-inch-wide, 6–8-inch-high raised beds with 22-inch aisles, then cover with black plastic mulch and tuck in drip irrigation beneath.
- North Georgia (Colder Zones): Matted-Row System in Early Spring: Spread 5 lb of 10-10-10 per 8×30 ft area about a week before planting, till, smooth, then sow plants 2 ft apart along rows 4 feet apart.
Let the bed settle after tilling; rain and gravity will firm it before planting.
Planting the Crowns: Depth and Spacing
Whether you’re placing bare-root crowns or potted plugs, spacing and depth are your best friends:
- Annual Hill: Set plants 12 inches between and within rows. The crown should rest just above the soil surface; if buried too deep, crowns rot; if too shallow, roots dry out.
- Matted Row: Mother plants go every 2 feet within rows 4 feet apart. Later, runners will fill the bed, forming a lush mat.
After placing, water deeply and regularly, especially in the first week. In fall plantings, ensure soil moisture is maintained to help roots establish before freezes.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
After planting, water carefully and keep soil evenly moist, encouraging roots to anchor deeply. In fall, using drip tape under plastic mulch helps keep crowns dry and disease at bay. If cold snaps threaten in North Georgia, overhead irrigation before the chill or snug row covers can defend vulnerable plants.
Be mindful: wet foliage invites rot. Keep watering low, and mulch strategically.
Early Growth Management: Flower Removal & Runner Control
Patience is key. In both systems, snip off those tempting early flowers in the first year. This helps plants put energy into roots and runners, building strength before flowering. On matted-row beds, runners should be nurtured to fill the bed; on hill systems, clip them off to focus energy on fruit-bearing crowns.
A gardener on Reddit shared their own lesson, wryly admitting they nearly buried the crown again after planting. Don’t do that. It rots the plant and kills the joy before it starts. Always keep the crown visible and let roots settle below.
Mulching, Irrigation & Ongoing Care
Mulch with straw or pine straw to retain moisture, cushioning the bed and keeping berries clean. For hills in fall, stick to black plastic mulch for warmth and weed control, pulling runners through holes where needed.
Irrigate so soil stays moist, but not soggy, around 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, migrating toward drip systems to avoid wetting foliage.
A fellow Georgia gardener once told me: “I watered relentlessly after planting to keep roots warm through those cold snaps. That moisture was the blanket they needed, not plastic or row covers.” Their default was drip irrigation, and it’s what saved me the year the forecast hit low 20s and frost threatened, keeping soil warm, roots safe, plants alive.
Common Concerns: Disease, Birds & Weather Warnings
Growing strawberries in Georgia isn’t just about timing and soil, it’s also about vigilance and adapting to the surprises that pop up: relentless rain, microbial enemies, and visiting wildlife. Tending a strawberry patch can feel like walking a tightrope in dew-drenched mornings, but armed with knowledge and a bit of humility, you can keep your sweet jewels thriving.
Disease Storms in Georgia’s Strawberry Fields
Wet springs and humid summers in Georgia are perfect incubators for a suite of fungal and bacterial diseases. These are the big troublemakers to know and guard against:
1. Botrytis Fruit Rot (Gray Mold)
This is the queen of rot here, usually showing up at the flower end or where fruits bump each other. In damp spells, berries turn soft and gray, then spoil quickly. The UGA Home Garden Strawberries guidance calls it the “most common and important fruit disease in Georgia” and urges fungicide protection from bloom through harvest and rotating sprays to slow resistance development.
2. Phomopsis Leaf Blight
This pesky blight begins as small reddish-purple spots that morph into V-shaped lesions along leaf veins. Over time, it can devour foliage and spread from leaves to crowns and fruit. UGA notes that it can recur every growing season and emphasizes early fungicide use when new growth appears. UC IPM also underscores its spread through water splash and advises avoiding overhead irrigation while maintaining clean, open beds.
3. Anthracnose and Crown Rot
When warm and moist skies linger, anthracnose flares. Georgia growers have observed resistance to strobilurin fungicides, so it’s recommended not to rely on those alone, and to layer in products like captan, Switch, or Miravis Prime in wetter seasons. Plus, rogue transplants can bring disease into your patch, so inspect everything carefully. UGA Extension reports more plant mortality from anthracnose, Phytophthora root rot, and an emerging threat, Neopestalotiopsis, which hits leaves, crowns, and fruit, particularly when transplants arrive infected or in rainy seasons.
4. Neopestalotiopsis (Emerging Threat)
This newcomer is aggressive. It attacks every part of the plant, often coming with nursery stock. Unlike Phytophthora which swims in water, this pathogen arrives stealthier. NC State and UGA urge caution: source clean plants, monitor carefully, and lean on diagnostics and local Extension services to confirm it if symptoms arise.
5. Leaf Scorch / Common Leaf Spot
Under warm, humid conditions, leaf scorch (Diplocarpon earlianum) and common leaf spot (Mycosphaerella fragariae) reduce leaf area, weaken plant health, and reduce yield. Scorch looks and feels like leaves have burned at the edges before drying.
Birds, Squirrels & Strawberry Robbery
Georgia strawberries smell like spring, so do they to garden critters. Robins, sparrows, squirrels, they know where your patch is.
- Netting is still the gold standard, especially when draped over hoops to lift it off the fruit and tied down well to deny access.
- For a more on-the-ground solution, one gardener shared an elegantly simple method: fabric mesh jewelry or party favor bags over each berry cluster, lightweight, breathable, and berry-friendly.
- Reflective tape, CDs, or motion deterrents can help, but often it’s easiest to plant extra rows, giving both you and the wildlife something to enjoy.
Read more: How to Protect Strawberries from Pests: Eco-Friendly Strategies
Weather Warnings & Frost Frustrations
Georgia may be mild, but it serves surprise chills. Cloudy, damp nights after planting weaken defenses, and a late spring frost can shrivel new growth.
- Prep bed moisture in late fall to buffer sudden freezes; damp soil holds warmth better than dry.
- In spring, row covers or gentle overhead water sprays can protect fragile buds when frost stalks. Geographically, I’ve noticed that insulating a bed with moisture, even a light mister under row covers, helps maintain internal air temperature just enough to save blooms.
Georgia’s strawberry patch is a dance between promise and unpredictability. The soil hums with potential, but rain, rot, pests, and frost can bring unexpected missteps. With open air circulation, clean beds, careful spraying, bird deterrents, frost safeguards, and healthy starting stock, you arm yourself not just with knowledge but deep trust in what your garden can become.
Conclusion
Standing at the edge of a strawberry patch in Georgia is to teeter between possibility and careful stewardship. Every step, timing, system choice, soil prep, planting, and defense matters deeply. Let’s wrap up the rhythm of this journey:
- Perfect Timing Depends on Your Zone: North Georgia favors early spring planting with a matted-row system. Middle and South Georgia benefit most from fall planting in the annual hill system, typically between mid-September and early November.
- Match System to Soil and Climate: Hill systems help manage disease in warmer areas, while matted rows thrive where winter is cooler and ground stays a bit dryer.
- Choose Proven, Region-Friendly Varieties: Chandler, Camarosa, and Sweet Charlie remain the gold standard here, with Albion and newer day-neutral types gaining traction for longer harvests.
- Build Soil That Smells of Life: Loamy, slightly acidic (pH 6.0–6.2), nutrient-rich soil establishes the healthiest roots. Compost, balanced fertilization, and consistent moisture without saturation are your patch’s best friends.
- Plant with the Senses and Precision: Planting crowns just above the soil surface, spacing properly, watering gently, and snipping flowers in the establishment year give your patch a strong start and clearer focus on growth and runner formation.
- Heed Real Stories and Warnings: Gardeners in Georgia know frost, disease, and wildlife don’t always follow the calendar, but a stocked runner patch, clean nursery starts, and flexible plans help you stay in the garden no matter what.
- Adapt to Threats with Proactivity: Diseases like Botrytis, Phomopsis leaf blight, Phytophthora crown/root rot, and the emerging threat Neopestalotiopsis require vigilance, clean transplants, good air circulation, and judicious fungicide use, following local Extension advice. Meanwhile, birds and critters demand early netting, cages, or creative deterrents. Home and garden experts even recommend 5 mm fine mesh secured to frames to protect fruit without harming wildlife.
By now, you have everything: the when, the how, the what to watch for, and real-world tales to guide your intuition. This isn’t a sterile planting plan, it’s the pulse of Georgia soil beneath your fingers, the scent of early harvest in the air, the wisdom of gardeners who’ve weathered surprise freezes and disease waves but still pulled juicy berries from their beds.
May your hands get muddy in exactly the right way, may your runners root and rebound, and may your harvest be full of sweet, honest flavor. Whenever you want to dive deeper, soil prep, runner propagation, post-harvest renovation, I’m here to dig in with you.
Happy planting and even sweeter picking ahead.